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The Sgian-Dubh Series


Sgian-dubh
| Scottish Gaelic

black knife

 

A traditional Scottish knife worn as part of Highland dress. Historically, it symbolised both lineage and personal protection.

 

Inspired by her Scottish heritage and a fascination with historical artefacts, Ellis was drawn to the idea of creating objects beyond jewellery. After discovering sections of ancient weaponry on her family farmland dating back to the 1700s, she developed The Sgian-Dubh Series.

To realise her vision, Ellis collaborated with master bladesmith Simon Maillet, a self-taught knife maker whose precision and texturing techniques perfectly complemented her organic, earth-inspired aesthetic.

This project culminated in a series of sgian-dubhs, which were hand engraved and set with old cut, salt and pepper, or baguette diamonds. The blades feature a three-layer san-mai construction, with a 52100 steel core and vintage iron cladding from Sheffield.

Sgian-Dubh I/V
Salt & Pepper Diamonds

Sgian-Dubh II/V
Old Cut Diamonds | Acquired by the V&A

Sgian-Dubh III/V
Baguette Diamonds

Sgian-Dubh IV/V
Engraved

Designed as objects d’art, each diamond set sgian-dubh blends historical inspiration with modern craftsmanship.

This initial series of sgian-dubhs inspired Ellis to explore a new chapter in engraving. In 2024, a Business Catalyst Grant from the Goldsmiths’ Company gave her the freedom to experiment with hand and pneumatic engraving alongside the award-winning Sam James Engraving team.

This led to an additional engraved piece that extends the artistry, heritage, and craftsmanship of the series.

Sgian-Dubh II/V

Acquired by the V&A

We are thrilled to share that the Victoria and Albert Museum has now acquired Sgian-Dubh II/V along with Ellis’s original sketchbook of design drawings for the series.

Both the knife and the sketchbook are now on display in the Metalwork Gallery, sitting alongside centuries of craftsmanship and design.

This aquisition marks the first sgian-dubh (historical or contemporary) to enter the V&A’s collection. It celebrates the significance of the Sgian-Dubh Series and Ellis’ commitment to reimagining Scottish heritage through a contemporary lens. With both the piece and sketchbook preserved at the V&A, this story of history, craft and modern empowerment will be shared with generations to come.

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